The new drink list at Nik’s & Co is all about the 1980s, carefully crafted pairings, and a desire to go against the grain. These are the words of Umberto Oliva, the newly appointed bar manager of the Milanese cocktail bar and long-time friend of owner Leo Sculli. Both hailing from Aspromonte, the two have “courted each other for a long time, often discussing the vision behind Nik’s & Co.” Now, they’re working together, aiming for big things.
Nik’s & Co’s New Drink List and Umberto Oliva’s ’80s Inspiration
Nik’s & Co has reached the sixth edition of its drink list, with each one inspired by a different decade. The latest installment pays tribute to the iconic elements of 1980s pop culture. From legendary movies like Star Wars and It to childhood games that are revived in the Slimer, the drink list is a nostalgic journey back in time. There’s even a nod to gaming milestones (hello, Super Mario) and vintage photography (Polaroid). It’s all about memories and that perfect touch of retro charm.
A Gastronomic Approach to Mixing
This concept is all done in Umberto Oliva’s signature style. “My approach to mixing is more like a chef’s than a bartender’s,” says Oliva. “I’ve worked closely with Michelin-starred chefs, and they have influenced my way of creating drinks. I always start with the raw ingredients: we don’t use pre-made juices or syrups. Everything is homemade, starting from scratch.”
Pairing at the Core
Each cocktail on the menu is paired with a dish created by Chef Paolo Bertin, highlighting the venue’s dual identity as both a cocktail bar and a restaurant. “The pairing is the result of a study Paolo and I conducted together,” says Umberto Oliva. This synergy is so central that they actively discourage guests from breaking up the pairing they’ve crafted. Of course, adventurous guests are free to experiment, but the team also provides alternatives, particularly vegetarian and vegan options.
Alcoholic and Non-Alcoholic Options
The menu is flexible enough to cater to all tastes, including those who prefer non-alcoholic drinks. In this case, Nik’s & Co’s kitchen becomes an essential partner: “We create bespoke non-alcoholic beverages using kitchen leftovers. For example, we take celeriac, Jerusalem artichokes, or celery, process them, and create hydrosols, which we either serve as non-alcoholic drinks or use in the preparation of non-alcoholic cocktails.”
Going Against the Grain, According to Umberto Oliva
In the cocktail industry, it’s common to redistill products — think porcini-infused whisky or horseradish vodka. Oliva, however, has a different take. “As bartenders, we often say that the most important ingredient in a cocktail is the ice, so water. While others are redistilling spirits, I’m taking the base of the cocktail—water—and distilling it. Simple.”
An example? “In Super Mario, we cook water with porcini, cocoa, and coffee, then redistill it to enhance the flavors. That water can then become a cordial, a soda, an ice cube, or dilution water. It’s an idea we’d like to incorporate into nearly all our cocktails.”
“It’s a challenge,” Oliva admits. “Master distillers spend years perfecting the aging of whisky or rum. Today, bartenders are redistilling these spirits, undoing the work of the master distiller. So, I throw out this provocation: we can certainly rectify spirits, but we can achieve the same, if not better, results by simply using water—reducing the drink’s cost without compromising its essence.”
Dreaming Big
Nik’s & Co has both a project and a dream for the future. The project is a book. Once the time-travel-inspired drink lists have all been created, “we’ll compile them into a volume. It will be available for purchase, but we’ll gift it to our most loyal customers.”
The dream is for “Nik’s & Co to become a brand recognized worldwide, opening locations across the globe. That’s the long-term aspiration. We’ll see where it takes us.”
Image credits of Julie Couder for Coqtail, all rights reserved
