Nestled in the heart of Turin, Azotea is a restaurant and cocktail bar where culinary artistry and mixology come together to create something truly unique. Their latest tasting menu, Chakana, is a journey through Andean cosmology, blending chef Alexander Robles’ Nikkei-inspired dishes with cocktails crafted by bar manager Matteo Fornaro.
Azotea’s New Menu
Before diving into the details, let’s set the scene. Chef Alexander Robles is a master of Nikkei cuisine, the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian culinary traditions. Hailing from Cusco, Robles brings a deep connection to Andean culture, which shines through in this menu.
The menu’s name, Chakana, or Andean Cross, is a millennia-old symbol of Inca culture, representing the three levels of life. Hanan Pacha, the upper world of gods and stars, is symbolized by the condor. Kay Pacha, the world we inhabit, reflects earthly life and is represented by the puma. Lastly, Uku Pacha, the underworld, embodies death and rebirth, with the serpent as its symbol.
At the center of the Chakana is an empty circle, which Azotea explains symbolizes “the infinite circle of life and the Incan navel of the world: Cusco.” It’s a deeply personal touch from Robles, tying his heritage to the menu.
Chakana: From the Incas to Azotea
Chef Robles explains that each level of life is represented by two dishes. This tasting menu becomes a voyage into a culture far removed from Italy’s, making it all the more fascinating. Meanwhile, bar manager Matteo Fornaro adds, “For Chakana, we drew inspiration from Turin’s traditions, playing with spicy, acidic, umami, oxidized notes while reinterpreting international cocktail classics.”
Every dish on the menu is available in a fully plant-based version, and every cocktail in the pairing can be made non-alcoholic, ensuring inclusivity without compromising creativity.
The Chakana Pairings
The tasting menu consists of six dishes, each paired with a mini cocktail to balance the flavors without overpowering the experience. Here are three pairings that offer a glimpse into this culinary journey, one for each level of the Chakana.
Mama Cocha and Encurtidos
Inspired by the upper world and the goddess of the sea, Mama Cocha reimagines the traditional picarones (Peruvian sweet potato doughnuts). The base remains true to tradition with camote (sweet potato) and flour, but the dish takes a savory turn with smoked and cured croaker fish, umeboshi pickled cucumbers, fig leaf mayo, and marrow mayo.
The cocktail pairing, Encurtidos, matches the dish’s smoky and tangy notes with dry vermouth infused with black cardamom, verjus, and gin infused with pickled gherkins. The result is a drink that complements the dish’s bold flavors perfectly.
Ch’uru Ceviche and Tinte
Dedicated to the middle world, this pairing is all about reinterpreting a Peruvian staple. Ch’uru Ceviche replaces white fish with snails and Sardinian mussels. The leche de tigre is flavored with lime, rocoto chili, and coriander, enriched with Andean ulluco tuber and served alongside sea lettuce and crispy purple corn wafers.
The cocktail, Tinte, is a vibrant blend of dry vermouth, mango and cachaça velvet, fermented and clarified pink ginger soda, and a poblano chili liqueur infused with Andean mint. It’s a complex, layered drink that pairs seamlessly with the dish’s bright acidity.
Amaru Ramen and Boletus Bastard Coffee
Representing the underworld, this pairing starts with Amaru Ramen, an Asian-inspired dish featuring pork belly, eel, rice noodles, bok choy, daikon, okra, wakame, and Judas ear mushrooms. The broth is a rich mix of pork bones, eel carcasses, and a soy-based stock with katsuobushi, aji mirasol, miso, and ginger.
The cocktail, Boletus Bastard Coffee, is an earthy concoction of peated Scotch whisky, sugarcane liqueur infused with red chili, clarified porcini mushroom consommé, and cold-extracted Colombian coffee. It’s a bold, smoky drink that perfectly mirrors the ramen’s depth.
Images courtesy of Azotea, Turin
