A warm amber glow shimmers in the glass, as the rich aromas and deep flavors of ripe fruit rise from the ratafià, then glide, drop by drop, towards the lips. This ancient liqueur, rooted in various regions, carries whispers of medieval convents, solemn pacts, and long-guarded traditions.
Once forgotten on dusty shelves amidst the origins of liqueur making, ratafià is experiencing a surprising revival. From the rolling hills of Champagne and the valleys of Piedmont to central Italy, from the rugged coasts of Normandy to the peaks of Catalonia, it’s capturing the hearts of bartenders and enthusiasts eager to rediscover genuine, intricate flavors.
Flavio Angiolillo and Ratafià: A Bridge Between Past and Present
Ratafià’s essence unfolds like a time-traveling journey, a kaleidoscope of regional recipes that evade simple categorization. It’s this versatility that gives ratafià its unique appeal — a drink that can be an aperitif, a digestif, a cocktail ingredient, or the perfect pairing for cheese-based dishes. Each sip is a rendezvous between fruit and spirit, crafting a symphony of flavors that is both rich and unexpected. “This is what struck me from the very first sip,” shares Flavio Angiolillo, entrepreneur and mixologist, adding: “It’s a bridge between past and present, finding new life today in the most innovative bars.”
The name ‘ratafià’ remains a subject of debate among historians. Some trace it back to the Latin phrase Pax Rata Fiat (let peace be ratified) or ut rata fiat (so that it may be ratified), referencing the tradition of sealing pacts with a toast. This history imbues the liqueur with an air of ceremony and tradition. In the absence of a common European regulation, ratafià production varies significantly across regions.
Ratafià: Bridging Italy, Spain, and France
In Italy, for instance, there’s the Piedmontese version classified as a PAT (Traditional Agri-food Product). “A study by spirits experts Giorgio Nisoli and Federico Altamura mapped out the diverse varieties of ratafià across the globe. In Piedmont, it’s crafted with red grape must and brandy, enriched with cherries and spices. Meanwhile, in central and southern Italy, the Ciociaro and Abruzzese ratafià feature sour cherries, macerated in local wines like Cesanese del Piglio DOCG or Atina DOC Cabernet,” says Angiolillo, who, being of French origin, has traveled extensively through his homeland in search of the finest cellars.
“France, with its AOCcertified traditions, offers a wealth of ratafià varieties. Ratafia de Champagne, with an alcohol content ranging from 16 to 22 percent, ages for 10 months to 3 years. Pineau des Charentes from the Cognac region, Floc de Gascogne, and Macvin du Jura follow a similar path. A standout is the Pommeau de Normandie, blending apple must with Calvados.” But ratafià’s journey extends well beyond. In Spain, Catalonia’s medieval monasteries are the birthplace of a tradition where green walnuts picked at the summer solstice are steeped in alcohol with local herbs and spices.
Continue reading on Coqtail – for fine drinkers magazine. Order your copy here
Photo by Julie Couder for Coqtail, all rights reserved
